Sunday, August 08, 2010

CSA meals

I made borshcht for the first time with our surplus of beets, red cabbage and dill. I realize there is an infinite variety of borshcht and this one, chosen at random, was not as borshcht-y as I would have liked.

Other fixin's include pickles. The cucumbers just keep on coming, in addition to some of the most robust heads of garlic I've ever seen and giant stalks of dill. No recipe here, just winging it and they turned out darn tasty.

J made a scrumptious ratatouille last night that used up the great variety of vegetables we got this week: eggplant, summer squash, zucchini, basil, tomatoes (oh yes, the fresh tomatoes started this week!), onion, garlic.

J also made a very tomato-y omelet with onions that was magnificently red.

recipes to follow--

Garlic soup

Star anise cake

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Carrot Cake

I made this as a 2-layer birthday cake, and while I didn't feel as though it was the paragon of carrot cakes, it was pretty good and small enough to serve 3 people who went back for so many seconds that it was gone within a day.

Ingredients

* Unsalted butter, for the pan
* 12 ounces, approximately 2 1/2 cups, all-purpose flour, plus extra for pan
* 12 ounces grated carrots, medium grate, approximately 6 medium
* 1 teaspoon baking powder
* 1 teaspoon baking soda
* 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
* 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
* 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
* 1/2 teaspoon salt
* 3/4 c sugar
* 1/4 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
* 3 large eggs
* 6 ounces plain yogurt
* 6 ounces sunflower oil
* Cream Cheese Frosting, recipe follows

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Butter 2 small, round cake pans. Line the bottoms with parchment paper. Set aside.

Put the carrots into a large mixing bowl and set aside.

Mix together flour, baking powder, baking soda, spices, and salt in a large bowl. Add this mixture to the carrots and toss until they are well-coated with the flour.

In another bowl combine the sugar, brown sugar, eggs, and yogurt.

While stirring, drizzle in the vegetable oil. Pour this mixture into the carrot mixture and stir until just combined. Pour into the prepared cake pans and bake on the middle rack of the oven for 45 minutes. Reduce the heat to 325 degrees F and bake for another 20 minutes or until the cake reaches 205 to 210 degrees F in the center.

Remove the pan from the oven and allow cake to cool 15 minutes in the pan. After 15 minutes, turn the cake out onto a rack and allow cake to cool completely. Frost with cream cheese frosting after cake has cooled completely.

Cream Cheese Frosting:

2 8 ounce packages cream cheese

4 ounces unsalted butter, room temperature

2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup powdered sugar, sifted

In the bowl of a stand mixer with paddle attachment, combine the cream cheese and butter on medium just until blended. Add the vanilla and beat until combined. With the speed on low, add the powdered sugar in 4 batches and beat until smooth between each addition.

Place the frosting in the refrigerator for 5 to 10 minutes before using.

Potato and Onion Frittata

This looked a little iffy when it was on top of the stove-- I could not elegantly lift a corner or two up to let the uncooked egg run under... I did it in a large, cast-iron pan, and although I was generous with the oil, it looked like I was going to have a sticky-uncooperative mess of eggs by the time it was all finished. Fortunately, a few minutes under the broiler-- which I only just today realized is at the top of this particular oven, and not the bottom as it was in the last oven I broiled something in-- made it transform into a glamorous, toasty-topped poof that did in fact slide out onto a serving plate and agree to being cut into neat little wedges. For the next time I might vary up the herbs a bit-- the rosemary was nice, but without the parsley that the recipe called for it was still a tad bland. Some zingy cheese would certainly solve that. What a good use for one of the enormous, downright weepy onions I got from our last CSA box.

Ingredients

* 2 tablespoons sunflower or grapeseed oil
* 1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced
* 1 (8 ounces) baking potato, peeled and thinly sliced
* 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
* Coarse salt and ground pepper
* 8 large eggs
* 1/2 cup whole flat-leaf parsley leaves

Directions

1. In a medium (10-inch) nonstick broilerproof skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add onion, potato, and rosemary; season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine.
2. Cover skillet, and cook 10 minutes; uncover. Cook, tossing mixture occasionally, until onion and potato are tender, about 5 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together eggs and parsley leaves.
4. Heat broiler with rack set 4 inches from heat. Add remaining tablespoon oil to vegetables in skillet. Pour egg mixture into skillet.
5. Cook on stove, over low heat, lifting mixture a few times around the edges with a spatula to let egg flow underneath. Continue cooking until frittata is almost set in center, about 10 minutes.
6. Place skillet under broiler; broil until frittata is set and top is lightly golden, about 3 minutes. Run a clean spatula around edges to loosen, then slide frittata out onto a serving plate, and cut into wedges.

Saturday, July 17, 2010

CSA eatin's, another week of

summer squash sauteed in sage and garlic
broccoli soup
carrot top scramble
beets, goat cheese & balsamic
coleslaw
chocolate chip zucchini bread
braise of summer squash, zucchini, cauliflower, lima beans, onions, carrots, with thyme and sage
cucumbers & red onions in apple cider vinaigrette

Carrot Top Scramble

1 tbsp olive oil
1/3 med onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
carrot greens, chopped
1 cup canned diced tomato (or fresh)
4 eggs
salt and pepper to taste

Sautée onion in a little olive oil for 2 – 3 minutes; add garlic and continue to cook for another minute or so. Toss in chopped carrot greens. Stir and cook for 2 – 3 minutes until they begin to wilt. Add diced tomato and simmer covered 3 minutes. Crack eggs into mixture and scramble until well combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Friday, July 16, 2010

Slow-Cooked Vegetable Braise

New to braising, this yummy one used up a lot of our CSA bounty this week. It's adapted from a recipe in Deborah Madison's "Local Flavors" cookbook.

3 T olive oil
2 bay leaves
2 onions, cut into large pieces
7 plump garlic cloves, peeled and halved
3 thyme sprigs
6 sage leaves
12 small (3- to 5-inch) carrots
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 c cheery tomatoes, halved
1 very large summer squash, cut into slices
1 c frozen lima beans thawed
1/2 c cauliflower florets
1 medium zucchini, cut into slices
1/2 c+ vegetable broth

Warm the 3 T oil with the bay leaves in a large casserole or Dutch oven over low heat. When fragrant, add the onions, garlic, thyme an sage. Cover and cook until onions are translucent. Add carrots and cook for 2-5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add all other veggies in layers with the quickest to cook on top. Add broth, cover and let simmer for 30-40 minutes.

Zucchini Bread 2.0 (with Chocolate Chips!)

Adapted form a Paula Deen recipe that, amazingly, contains no butter. Not that I have anything against butter, but keeping it dairyfree is sometimes desirable for our eating parameters. I did not do the whipped cream topping, but sounds lovely topped with the zucchini ribbons.

Ingredients

* 3 cups all-purpose flour
* 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
* 1 teaspoon salt
* 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
* 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
* 1 teaspoon baking soda
* 3 eggs
* 1 cup white sugar
* 1 cup sunflower oil
* 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
* 2 cups grated zucchini
* 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
((* 1 tablespoon orange zest
* Whipped cream, for serving
* Zucchini ribbons, for serving))

Directions

Preheat oven at 350 degrees F. Grease 3 small loaf pans.

Sift together flour, baking powder, salt, spices and baking soda.

In a large bowl, beat eggs until light and fluffy. Add sugar, and continue beating until well blended. Stir in oil, vanilla, zucchini, chocolate chips, and orange zest. Stir in sifted ingredients. Pour into prepared loaf pans.

Bake for 55 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. Remove loaves from pans and cool. Chill before slicing. Serve with whipped cream and ribbons of zucchini.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Chickpea Veggie Burgers



I don't know how this is possible, but I have never made a veggie burger from scratch before today. For 17 years it's been Boca, Dr. Prager's or some other variation of the frozen hockey puck variety. With all the veg coming in lately via our CSA share, we are up to our eyeballs in refreshing, cool summer salads: cucumbers and red onions tossed in apple cider vinegar and a little water; cole slaw with cilantro, chives and oil and vinegar; chilled steamed beets to be layered with slices of fresh goat cheese and drizzled with olive oil and balsamic... These things don't exactly pair well with a pasta dish, so it seemed like a good time to try my hand at a veg patty worthy of their company.

Apparently I saved myself years of trial and error by starting with a good source from which to improvise. And improvise I will. If the basics are really chickpeas, eggs and breadcrumbs, then a lush palette of veggies, herbs and spices await. For the first time around I kept it simple.

(I suppose if we're feeling gluten-free the breadcrumbs can be swapped out for the quinoa flakes.)


1 1/2 c canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed
2 large eggs
1/4 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt
1/3 c chopped fresh parsley
1/4 c red onion, chopped
1/2 cup bread crumbs
1/2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Combine the chickpeas, eggs, and salt in a food processor (VitaMix). Puree until the mixture is the consistency of a very thick, slightly chunky hummus. Pour into a mixing bowl and stir in the parsley and onion. Add the breadcrumbs, stir, and let sit for a couple of minutes so the crumbs can absorb some of the moisture. At this point, you should have a moist mixture that you can easily form into four patties.

Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium low, add 4 patties, cover, and cook for 7 to 10 minutes, until the bottoms begin to brown. Turn up the heat if there is no browning after 10 minutes. Flip the patties and cook the second side for 7 minutes, or until golden. Add slices of cheese in the last few minutes and cover to melt.

Serve with slices of avocado and mayo & dijon on the side. (Of course millions of other toppings abound.)

Makes 4 burgers.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Orange Marmalade Cake

Original Recipe Yield 1 - 10 inch Bundt cake

Ingredients

* 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
* 1 teaspoon baking powder
* 1/4 teaspoon salt-- I used Himalayan pink salt
* 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
* 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
* 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
* 2/3 cup butter, melted-- I used 2/3 c sunflower oil instead
* >2/3 cup white sugar
* 3 eggs
* 1/3 cup milk
* 1 tablespoon lemon juice
* 1/2 cup orange marmalade

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Grease and flour a 9 inch Bundt pan. (I made 2 small loaves)
2. Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves, set aside. In a medium bowl, stir together the sugar, melted butter, eggs, milk and lemon juice. Add dry ingredients to the egg mixture, mix until well blended. Finally, stir in the marmalade. (I stirred it in very imperfect/minimally and it created nice outposts of sticky orange bits.) Pour batter into the prepared Bundt cake pan.
3. Bake for 45 to 60 minutes, until cake springs back when lightly touched. Cool for 10 minutes in the pan before inverting onto a wire rack to cool completely.

Friday, July 09, 2010

More CSA-inspired meals

Red Quinoa salad with red onion, summer squash, broccoli and tomato in a homemade vinagrette

Radiatore pasta salad with red onion, summer squash, broccoli, tomato and feta cheese in a homemade vinegarette

Cole slaw of cabbage and grated kohlrabi with chives and cilantro (from a simple recipe in the Farmer John cookbook that the CSA kicked in for free with our membership. This looks like it will be one of the most used cookbooks in our collection.)

Sauteed kale with garlic, rosemary potatoes and baked salmon on a bed of herbs (basil, thyme, chives)

Ragout of summer squash, chickpeas, tomato, spring onions, garlic, fennel seed, basil and oregano served over polenta

Another very green stir fry comprised of spinach, spring onions, broccoli

Beet salad with goat cheese and balsamic and olive oil vinegrette

Sunday, June 27, 2010

CSA Meals


The first two weeks of our CSA shares have yielded some of the most spectacular dinners we've had. The freshness of the vegetables, biodynamically grown a two hour drive from where we live, is unsurpassed. Additionally, we've been getting fresh, local, pastured eggs and chickens from the local farmer's market. And, all the fresh herbs we are using are from our container garden on the patio. I may earn my Alice Waters badge yet! Here's an attempt to recall the last several days in food...

Zucchini, spring onion and garlic scapes sautee with spaghetti
Beet salad with orange vineagrette

Stir fry of yellow squash, broccoli and spinach over brown rice

Carrot-ginger soup
Scallion-black sesame crepes stuffed with sauteed spinach

Spinach and feta omelets

Curried cauliflower-apple soup
Radish-chives-shaved parmesan salad (from the Cookbook Local Flavors, something magical happened in this dish that made me love radishes)
A colorful salad of lettuce (not sure of the variety), capers, yellow and red tiny tomatoes, and beets with a Meyer lemon vineagrette.
This with a bottle of Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc 2009 from Casablanca Valley, Chile (A chipper juice that rounded out the salads nicely. J wasn't the biggest fan of it, but it vastly exceeded my expectations considering I got it at Jewel!) and a baguette.

Zucchini bread

Radiatorre pasta with sauteed, grated zucchini and J's pesto. (J's pesto is from the bag of basil we received from our CSA share this week in addition to basil from our patio that needed to be cut back. I'm not sure the proportions of everything, but it's nutfree and contains parmesan and pecorino romano cheeses.)

Curried Cauliflower Apple Soup

Makes about 4 cups

Ingredients

* 1/2 white onion, chopped fine
* 2 garlic cloves, minced
* 1/2 teaspoon curry powder
* 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
* 2 apples (I used gala, but Granny Smith was recommended)
* 4 cups cauliflower flowerets (about 1 small head)
* 3+ cups Imagine No-Chic broth
* 1/4 cup heavy cream

Preparation

In a large soup pot cook onion, garlic, and curry powder in butter over moderately low heat, stirring, until onion is softened.

Peel and core apple. Chop apple coarse and add to curry mixture. Add cauliflower and broth. Simmer, covered, until cauliflower is very tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

In a blender or food processor purée soup in batches until very smooth, transferring as puréed to another saucepan. Stir in cream and salt and pepper to taste and heat over moderate heat until hot.

Zucchini Bread

Yield: 2 loaves or approximately 24 muffins

3 eggs
1/2 cup olive or vegetable oil
1/2 cup applesauce
1 cup sugar
2 cups grated zucchini
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 cups all-purpose flour
3 teaspoons cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon lemon zest

Preheat oven to 350°F.
Butter two 8×4 inch loaf pans, liberally.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk. Mix in oil, applesauce and sugar, then zucchini, lemon zest and vanilla.

Combine flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking soda, baking powder and salt, as well as nuts, chocolate chips and/or dried fruit, if using.

Stir this into the egg mixture. Divide the batter into prepared pans.

Bake loaves for 60 minutes, plus or minus ten, or until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

A red and a white

A couple of picks from Binny's that were better than expected...

2008 Tamellini Soave

and my favorite Abruzzo red so far..

2007 Masciarelli Montepulciano

Tuesday, April 06, 2010

Sesame Cole Slaw

This is colorful and flavorful and proved a nice complement to some sauteed turbot and a light carrot-ginger soup. A perfect dinner for one of the first warm days of the year-- mid 70's and humid. Went well with a chilled Riesling. In spite of the marketing, I decided to try the Kung Fu Girl Riesling and it was a good sipper.

2 small heads of cabbage, napa and red (thinly sliced it was about 5 cups)
1/4 c sesame oil
1/2 c sunflower oil
1/2 c rice vinegar
2 T black sesame seeds
1 T red pepper flakes
1 1/2 T minced fresh ginger
1/3 c chopped cilantro

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and mix. Let rest for 10-15 minutes before serving to ensure that all the flavors have a chance to come together.

Monday, March 15, 2010

Courtwright's

Our first 2 1/2 hour childfree, fine dining experience in two years took place last night in a wooded suburb not far from home (in case babysitters summoned us home early with an emergency!). We were seated next to the wall of windows that face into the forest preserve and throughout our meal deer and a raccoon ventured close to dine at one of the feeders. As night fell, the bck gardens were illuminated with little white lights which gave it an inviting look too (not quite warm enough for outdoor dining yet though). I could see why family friend had his wedding reception here: the ambiance was matched by the impeccable service and the freshness and classic sophistication of the food to make it an extraordinary destination, suburbs or no.

We started with a glass each of Roederer Estate Brut N.V. from Anderson Valley, California, a nice sparkler with subtlety and nutty notes. A little amuse bouche arrived at our table shorty after consisting of a puree of some root vegtable, a white one, I don't recall topped with a sprinkling of chorizo. I broke my no red meat rule to taste the chorizo bits, since I think this is one of those establishments that does its own charcuterie, and found it to be a worthwhile diversion. Then we enjoyed the appetizer du jour: a slice of Humboldt Fog cheese on a crotini beside a salad of mesclun greens, blood orange and beets dressed in a blool orange vinaegrette. Then I had the soup du jour, a bright green asparagus soup-- mmm, the season's first-- gloriously plated at the table with a beet coulis mingled in the center. The colors remained distinct as I ate the entire bowl of soup making every spoonful an artful palate. J had this salad: Prosciutto Roulade with Warm Brie and Pistachios
Hearts of Romaine, Roasted Pears, Black Balsamic Vinaigrette. Tasty, according to J, if not a little heavy for a salad course. For dinner I had the Clarified Butter Poached Lobster with Braised Baby Romaine, Tuxedo Orzo Pasta in a Lobster Civet Sauce. I haven't had lobster in years and it was presented as a tail and one claw with an earthiness to the sauce that complemented the inherent richness of the lobster and the butter nicely. This was paired with an Elio Grasso, Gavarini from Langhe, Italy 2008 at our server's recommendation.

For J's entree he had the Braised Pheasant in Red Wine “Coq au Vin” with Carrots, Pearl Onions, Shiitake Mushrooms, Bacon, and Celeriac. Neither of us had ever had pheasant before. I haven't had much game at all, but a taste of this dish definitely piqued my interest. J's wine choice was Adelsheim Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2007.

For dessert I presided over the Molten Chocolate Cake with Chocolate Glaze and Hazelnut Gelato. J meanwhile polished off an Apple & Pear Brioche Napoleon with Caramel Sauce, Chantilly Cream, a superior confection!

The only downsides were the soundtrack- Muzak for the first half of our meal and then some anemic classical and the coffee, also anemic. Since the rest of the clientele was of retirement age, perhaps both of these factors were decidedly bland.

All in all, the was dinner as an event like we've been missing for so long. As I overheard a raucous fellow dinner making menu recommendations to other members of his party, I could imagine that-- with a generous budget-- this could easily be one's old favorite go-to places for an extraordinary meal in the continental tradition.

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Two cheeses

Taleggio cheese= big hit.

I also bought a Reblechon, which in spite of its interesting history and my penchant for rich cheeses, didn't appeal to me as much as the Teleggio. The Rechlechon was a little too assertive in its acidic or ashy flavor, not the subtle buttery notes I expected from its appearance.

Friday, February 12, 2010

2007 La Posta, ‘Estala Armando Vineyard’ Bonarda, Mendoza, Argentina

This had a little more character than your Malbecs to my palate, and it was a spectacular sipper with Humboldt Fog ripened goat cheese.

Onion Confit

I decided to try my hand at my first-ever onion confit. It was slightly more laborious than I expected-- the cooking and tending time in the oven lasted exactly the duration of one itty-bitty's nap-- and when it was done I thought, "Um, OK, now what am I going to do with all of this onion confit exactly?" But turns out it is very worth it. This is a nice "staple" to have handy in the fridge. I've reached for it countless times in the past week as a surprising zazz to turkey sandwiches, in making a vinaigrette to go over a spinach salad, and as a sturdy basis for an onion and goat cheese quiche. Oh, it was meant to go with chevre. Those French know what they're doing.

The confit's swan song proved no less dazzling as I warmed about 1/4 cup of the confit with a cup of leftover roasted cauliflower in 2-3 cups of vegetable broth. Once it was all simmered together for 15 minutes or so, I buzzed it through the blender with a dash (>1/4 c) of half and half. A little dollop of creme fraiche topped it off and weee-- never again shall cauliflower languish in my fridge.

Here is the recipe for the onion confit, adapted from a cookbook called The Vegetarian Table: France.

4 T butter
5 lbs yellow onions, cut into slices 1/4-3/8 inch thick (about 7 cups)
1/4 c olive oil
8 dried bay leaves
4 T herbes de Provence
1 T freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 300 degrees.
Cut butter into several chunks and place them on 2 large baking sheets. Place baking sheets in the oven to melt the butter, about 4 or 5 minutes.
Remove the baking sheets from the oven and spread out the slices onions on them. The layer of onions should be about 1 inch deep. Tuch the bay leaves amongst the onions, the sprinkle the onions with the herbs and black pepper. Drizzle olive oil evenly over the top.
Put baking sheets back in the oven and cook the onions, turning them in the oil and butter every 10 to 15 minutes, until they have turned a light golden brown and have reduced in volume by nearly half, 1-1 1/4 hours.
Remove from oven and let cool. Transfer to 1 or more clean, dry jars and cover tightly. Store in refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Tuesday, February 09, 2010

Acorn Squash Quickbread

Earlier in the week I roasted an acorn squash. Then we ordered Thai food. Days later, the little squash sat forgotten in the fridge with nothing to go with in any sort of meaningful future meal kind of way. So I mashed it up-- leaving some big chunks though- and readied my mixin arm for a quickbread... something a little sweet but also not altogether unhealthy. The result was a moist, sweet-enough-for-me, bread that could be breakfast or dessert (in my case it was both, plus midnight snack). Walnuts would be a nice addition to this one too when I'm done being a nut-phobe where our nina is concerned. A keeper. Definitely make this one again.

2 c. white sugar
1/2 tsp. baking powder
2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. cloves
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. nutmeg
1 tsp. ginger
1 c. sunflower oil
1 c. water
2 c. unbleached white flour
1 c. whole wheat flour
1/2 c. wheat germ
2 c.+ acorn squash, cooked, cooled & mashed
4 eggs


Combine dry ingredients. Add water, oil and squash. Pour 1/2 full into 3 greased and floured 9"x5" loaf pans.

Bake at 325 degrees for 1 hour and 15 minutes or when toothpick inserted in middle comes out clean.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Blood Orange, Watercress and Frisee Salad



Dressing:
juice of 1/2 a blood orange, about 2 tablespoons
1 T red wine vinegar
4 T olive oil

1 blood orange, peeled and sliced
12 hazelnuts, lightly dry toasted in an iron pan on top of the stove and then cut in half
6 slices of goat cheese (soft, chevre)
1/2 c frisee
1/2 c watercress

Mix together the dressing. Toss greens with dressing separately in a large bowl. Arrange in bowls starting with a bottom layer of frisee topped by the watercress. Arrange orange slices, goat cheese slices and hazelnuts on top of the greens.

Serves 2.

California Dreamin

It's that time of year when I wonder how on Earth I've managed to live in the Midwest all these years. To not see the sun for, like, 39 days straight would certainly crank up anyone's seasonal affective disorder. But the infernal succession of ice, sleet, snow, slush, melt, snow, ice, sleet is a certain counterindication for the little Vitamin D capsules I add to my battery of supplements this time of year. The groundhog used to provide some solace, but the last few years spring is delayed well past his groggy worst-case scenario.

Our attempts to eat within a tristate "local" radius yields little more than squash and beets this time of year, of which we have eaten plenty. Oh to be in the land of year round citrus and greens growing in your own backyard! So while the organic broccoli at Trader Joe's is Californian and looking wan, it's among the many other not-squash-or-beets that must round out my diet. Perhaps someday I'll do some canning and try to really live it old-school, but until then my only truly local and seasonal food options are venison and racoon scampering out of the woods and into the nearest 4 lane highway. That reminds me, let's hear it for dried beans!

An additional food challenge is the 21 month old who lives with us. This baby who up until recently so gloriously counted among her favorite foods tabouli, goat cheese, and salmon will, to take today for example, only eat crackers, bread, toast (apparently its own category of food), O cereal, and waffles (plain, don't even try to sneak a fruit in it or on top of it). She does get on kicks for a certain food and these foods are seldom local or in season, but like heck if I don't go to the ends of the earth to find organic seedless grapes this time of year if it's The Thing she's decided to permit past her lips. The most recent kick had been for raspberries but without warning the kick ended and I was left with two containers which I have been enjoying in the mornings with yogurt, my summertime breakfast cutting a little swath of comfort through this bleak season.

Other food friends that have helped to beat the blahs lately are--

-Humboldt Fog goat cheese paired with an earthy red, a chance to enjoy some new-to-me varietals out of South America, much more booming than my usual Loire preferences, but with this cheese they're perfect

-Homemade waffles smeared with melted chocolate

-J's tomato-tarragon soup

-This Amish cottage cheese from Iowa-- the best cottage cheese I've ever tasted! It was twice as good the week we had some very ripe, sweet pears.

-An-Mok stone ground wheat crackers. Since crackers are V's go-to food I've been exploring all kinds and this brand is really tasty.

-Lima bean-fennel soup

While we're in exile a few months longer from any foodie destination whatsoever, it remains homecooking every day, all the time. This, coupled with the gluten-minimal, dairy-now-somewhat-permissible, almost entirely vegetarian stipulations have brought my game up a notch, I must say. A few memorable meals include fried plantains with mojo and garlicy black beans with avocado tacos; polenta (the first time I've ever made it) with a ragout of zucchini, spinach, garlic and shallots, tomato-basil sauce and pecorino romano cheese; slow roasted salmon fillets on a bed of fresh tarragon.

It'll be June before our CSA share kicks in, and hopefully it will be slightly sooner than that that we will be returning to the city and to the land of restaurants I actually want to eat in and well-supplied, non-corporate grocery stores.

Until then, I'm taking my Vit D with a hearty helping of flax and keeping my picky eater enthusiastic about helping in the kitchen by letting her "chop vegetables" with her own cutting board and knife... a butter knife.

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Roasted Root Vegetable Potage

I love the word "potage." It makes my homey soup of whatever I happen to have going limp in the refrigerator drawer sound downright sexy. Here's what got whipped up into a creamy soup today. (The blended soup kick is partly my preference, partly a way to increase the odds that a formerly omnivorous toddler who lately prefers crackers to vegetables will consume something flavorful and nutritious.) I used some homemade chicken stock I had in the freezer, but as a most-of-the-time vegetarian, I would have otherwise made this with vegetable stock.

4 carrots, peeled and chopped into 1" pieces
4 parsnips, peeled and chopped into 1" pieces
4 turnips, peeled and chopped into 1" pieces
4 stalks of celery, chopped into 1" pieces
3/4 of a yellow onion, diced
6 cups of chicken stock
1/4 c olive oil
salt and white pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Toss carrots, parsnips and turnips in olive oil, reserving a little but of the oil for the soup pot. Roast for 45 minutes or until brown.

When vegetables are out of the oven, saute onion and celery in olive oil in a large soup pot over medium-high heat for 2-3 minutes, until onion is fragrant and translucent. Add chicken stock and roasted vegetables. Reduce heat. Let all the ingredients simmer together for 20 minutes or so. Transfer to blender and blend into a smooth consistency for a creamy soup. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

Post soup note: the carrots give this soup a beautifully pale, orange color, while the sweetness of the parsnips and the pepperiness of the turnips are a great flavor pairing. I estimated the amount stock I used and so when I blended it it was still a bit thick. A little water brought it to the perfect consistency, however.

Fool Madamas

One thing about where we are currently living, the Middle Eastern food is outstanding. One suburb over there is a large community of people from Palastine, Lebanon, and Syria that there are no shortage of mom-and-pop restaurants fulfilling my frequent dolma/hummus/shawirma cravings. One such place also does a tasty "fool," sometimes also spelled "ful." This is like hummus but made with fava beans instead of chickpeas.

Since I have been using up the dried beans I dug out of the pantry a few days ago, decided to try my hand at a "fool" to use up some dried fava beans that have been hanging around unloved for far too long.

1 1/2 c dried fava beans
1 clove crushed garlic
juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 c olive oil
1/2 t cumin

Soak fava beans overnight. Then cover with water and boil for 45 minutes to an hour. Let cool. Shell fava beans. Toss into a blender with remaining ingredients. Blend until desired consistency is reached. I added a little bit of water to make mine into a smooth puree, but some people may like their "fool" on the chunkier side.

This is good with toasted pita bread wedges, but since we didn't have any of those, and we are still primarily gluten-free in this household, I made myself a fried egg and topped it with fool. This is apparently a traditional breakfast in Egypt. And man is it good-- the runny yolk and the garlic and the fool's creaminess all combine into a nice variety of flavors and textures. What a good protein wallop to start the day!

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Wine & Cheese

A current favorite evening nibble--

Meinklang Burgundenland & a goat gouda

Delicata Squash Stuffed With White Beans, Spinach and Sage

This meal evolved over the course of a day and a half, but it's hardly THAT laborious. This is the first time I'd ever cooked, and perhaps eaten, delicata squash. And it's one of the first times I've cooked with dried beans, besides throwing them into a soup, that is. It's a nod to using up what was around, and tweaking an existing recipe I found elsewhere online to make it gluten-free. Omitting the sprinkling of cheese I added at the end would make it dairyfree as well, but the picorino romano added lots of punch here and complemented the sage and the garlic quite nicely.

1 delicata squash, halved and seeds scooped out
1 c dried white beans, soaked overnight
1 large garlic clove, minced
extra-virgin olive oil
2-3 c baby spinach leaves, chopped
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage leaves
1 c leftover brown rice
1/4 cup grated piccorino romano cheese


Bring a pot of water, about 4 cups, to a light boil over medium heat. Add beans. Cook for about 1 1/2 hours or until beans are tender but not splitting. Drain (but reserve some of the liquid) and set beans aside.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place the squash halves (cut side up) on a sheet pan or in a baking dish. Drizzle the surfaces with some olive oil, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bake in the oven until the flesh is tender when pierced with a knife or fork, about 1 hour. Remove the squash halves from the oven and set aside.

For the filling, heat a little extra-virgin olive oil (about 1-2 Tbsp) in a saute pan over medium heat until hot, then add the minced garlic and saute for about 30 seconds, until fragrant. Add the greens and saute until wilted. Now add leftover rice and the cooked white beans and continue cooking the mixture until the beans and rice are heated through. The leftover rice is probably dry from being in the refrigerator, so add a few tablespoons of the bean liquid to the pan. Stir in the chopped fresh sage, season to taste with coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper, and set aside to cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Fill the squash halves with rice mixture. Sprinkle freshly grated piccorino romano cheese over each squash half. Since everything is cooked this is really just a 5-10 minute cook time to warm up the squash and to melt the cheese (if using).

Serves 2

Sunday, January 03, 2010

A Season for Drinking

lots of notable wines have crossed our table in the last few weeks.

Chateau Haut Peyruguet 2008 is my favorite white Bordeaux yet

Saracco Moscato D'Asti 2009 was delicious with Jeff's marzipan birthday cake

Perrin Reserve Cotes du Rhone 2007 was a nice, nice red for all ocassions

I don't usually like straight-up Pinot Noirs (too boomy) but Meinklang's Pinot is much more subtle and balanced, earthy and jammy.

Mas de Gougonnier Reserve du Mas 2004 les Baux de Provence was one of Jeff's favorites to date

And, I think we may have had this one before, but in case it hasn't been previously noted, a solild Gewurztraminer from Oregon: Montinore Estate 2007.

Cheers! Happy 2010!