Courtwright's

Our first 2 1/2 hour childfree, fine dining experience in two years took place last night in a wooded suburb not far from home (in case babysitters summoned us home early with an emergency!). We were seated next to the wall of windows that face into the forest preserve and throughout our meal deer and a raccoon ventured close to dine at one of the feeders. As night fell, the bck gardens were illuminated with little white lights which gave it an inviting look too (not quite warm enough for outdoor dining yet though). I could see why family friend had his wedding reception here: the ambiance was matched by the impeccable service and the freshness and classic sophistication of the food to make it an extraordinary destination, suburbs or no.

We started with a glass each of Roederer Estate Brut N.V. from Anderson Valley, California, a nice sparkler with subtlety and nutty notes. A little amuse bouche arrived at our table shorty after consisting of a puree of some root vegtable, a white one, I don't recall topped with a sprinkling of chorizo. I broke my no red meat rule to taste the chorizo bits, since I think this is one of those establishments that does its own charcuterie, and found it to be a worthwhile diversion. Then we enjoyed the appetizer du jour: a slice of Humboldt Fog cheese on a crotini beside a salad of mesclun greens, blood orange and beets dressed in a blool orange vinaegrette. Then I had the soup du jour, a bright green asparagus soup-- mmm, the season's first-- gloriously plated at the table with a beet coulis mingled in the center. The colors remained distinct as I ate the entire bowl of soup making every spoonful an artful palate. J had this salad: Prosciutto Roulade with Warm Brie and Pistachios
Hearts of Romaine, Roasted Pears, Black Balsamic Vinaigrette. Tasty, according to J, if not a little heavy for a salad course. For dinner I had the Clarified Butter Poached Lobster with Braised Baby Romaine, Tuxedo Orzo Pasta in a Lobster Civet Sauce. I haven't had lobster in years and it was presented as a tail and one claw with an earthiness to the sauce that complemented the inherent richness of the lobster and the butter nicely. This was paired with an Elio Grasso, Gavarini from Langhe, Italy 2008 at our server's recommendation.

For J's entree he had the Braised Pheasant in Red Wine “Coq au Vin” with Carrots, Pearl Onions, Shiitake Mushrooms, Bacon, and Celeriac. Neither of us had ever had pheasant before. I haven't had much game at all, but a taste of this dish definitely piqued my interest. J's wine choice was Adelsheim Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2007.

For dessert I presided over the Molten Chocolate Cake with Chocolate Glaze and Hazelnut Gelato. J meanwhile polished off an Apple & Pear Brioche Napoleon with Caramel Sauce, Chantilly Cream, a superior confection!

The only downsides were the soundtrack- Muzak for the first half of our meal and then some anemic classical and the coffee, also anemic. Since the rest of the clientele was of retirement age, perhaps both of these factors were decidedly bland.

All in all, the was dinner as an event like we've been missing for so long. As I overheard a raucous fellow dinner making menu recommendations to other members of his party, I could imagine that-- with a generous budget-- this could easily be one's old favorite go-to places for an extraordinary meal in the continental tradition.

Two cheeses

Taleggio cheese= big hit.

I also bought a Reblechon, which in spite of its interesting history and my penchant for rich cheeses, didn't appeal to me as much as the Teleggio. The Rechlechon was a little too assertive in its acidic or ashy flavor, not the subtle buttery notes I expected from its appearance.